L'Envol
Celebrating Caviar and Champagne with Haute French Cuisine in Hong Kong
L'Envol is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant renowned for its approach to innovative French haute cuisine. It has earned acclaim for its meticulously crafted dishes, thoughtful service, and extensive wine program, making it a top destination for special occasions and gourmet dining in Hong Kong. L'Envol’s menu is known for its seafood-focused dishes, creative use of caviar and champagne, and artful presentation.
The restaurant opened in 2019 as part of the St. Regis Hotel. Under the leadership of Executive Chef Olivier Elzer, the restaurant quickly gained recognition for its creative take on French cuisine, incorporating premium ingredients from France and Asia. It earned its first Michelin star in 2020 and a second in 2021, cementing its status as one of Hong Kong’s premier dining establishments.
Chef Elzer, a German-born chef raised in Nice, France, has over 23 years of culinary experience across Europe and Asia. His passion for cooking was sparked early, influenced by his mother, who ran a restaurant in Nice. Chef Elzer’s career is marked by his dedication to French culinary techniques, which he blends with innovative approaches and Asian influences in his work at L'Envol. He is widely regarded as one of Hong Kong’s leading French chefs, known for his creativity, precision, and ability to balance flavors.
Elzer began learning the culinary trade at his mother’s restaurant in Nice, gaining hands-on experience from a young age. He worked at several prestigious establishments in France, honing his skills in classic French cuisine before moving to Asia, where he served as chef de cuisine under the legendary Joël Robuchon, mastering the art of French fine dining. He then moved on to become the executive chef at Pierre at the Mandarin Oriental, earning it two Michelin stars, before starting his own restaurant, Seasons by Olivier E. in Taipei. Eventually he returned to Hong Kong to head up L'Envol.
The back of the restaurant showcased a massive show kitchen with the staff busily at work in the back. The dining room was incredibly spacious, unlike the rest of Hong Kong. Our table for two could easily have fit eight.
A giant bottle of Ratafia Champenois. I distinctly remember the last time I tried this bottle at Tate Dining Room. It was so unique, I ended up buying a bottle for home. A favourite that turned me on to ratafia de champagne in general. A fairly uncommon fortified wine in the same family as Madeira or Port. So naturally, I went with a glass.
The amuse bouche - a set of crackers with “Tel Aviv” spices. I’ve never heard of the spice combination before, but a combination of savory and a bit of kick and some seasoned creme fraiche as a dip. Not particularly impressive in appearance, but genuinely a great combination. A bit of spice offset by the creaminess and tang of the creme fraiche.
There were two menus on offer, a longer seven course menu, “Les Heritages”, featuring all the classics and a shorter four course menu, “Le Menu De L’ete”, that featured more seasonal dishes. We went with the shorter seasonal menu, but added the signature Hokkaido sea urchin dish from the A La Carte menu.
The canape was a bit odd, with a bottom layer of foie gras topped with peach jelly, sliced almonds and pepper. As it turns out, peach goes very well with foie gras. Not a combination I would’ve thought of.
The bread course with a thick layer of champagne-infused butter hiding a generous scoop of caviar, artfully scooped and assembled table side.
Individual bread baskets with slices of homemade sourdough, brioche, and a “brezzo” bread. Not exactly sure what that was.
The first course was a bonito tartare, hiding an Ebisu oyster underneath, dottted with turnip jelly and creme fraiche and a scoop of caviar in the middle. Neat, lots of delicate details requiring a high level of precision from the kitchen and highlighting the “No. 2 Superior Oscietre” caviar.
Next, a sea bream cassole, cooked in rock salt with different textures of zucchini - thinly sliced discs, deep fried zucchini flower, and small pieces of tender zucchini in a herbal coriander sauce.
We ordered the signature dish at L’Envol off the A La Carte menu. A small tin of Hokkaido sea urchin layered over diced gamberoni prawn tartare and diced fennel. Rich, creamy and I can clearly see why this is one of the signature dishes.
With a bit of a odd presentation, straight out of a horror film, the first preparation of duck, was meatball formed of duck meat, served on deep fried duck tongues. While the meatball was delicious, both myself and my companion agreed that the presentation was a little creepy.
The second duck preparation was a bit more conventional. A perfectly cooked duck breast, smoked on cherry wood and presented on a bed of lavender, served wit ha small bouquet of tender buttery French beans, a nectarine puree, duck jus, and thin nectarine slices. Absolutely perfectly done, and a highlight of the meal.
Finally, the dessert, “La Sphere Espresso”, with different textures of coffee - coffee jelly, coffee cream, topped with a scoop of mascarpone ice cream. It felt a bit like a play on the classic tiramisu. Not bad at all.
We were in a bit of a rush, so we decided to take out petit fours to go. Unfortunately, between the time we left the restaurant and I remembered to look for it the next day, the package seemed to disappear - either we left it in the taxi, or my companion sneakily ate it and hid the evidence, but the mystery of what was in the package of petit fours shall remain unsolved.
Overall, my opinion of L’Envol is pretty good. It would be a stretch to say that it was among the best French dining experiences I’ve had this year - but that’s because there’s so much amazing French cuisine in Hong Kong. I wasn’t sure what to expect when I made the booking, and definitely not the generous servings of caviar and champagne infused into otherwise normal dishes, but definitely worth the visit, at least once.
Total damage: 6200 HKD/2 people