Saison by Mauro Colagreco

So I was back at the Raffles hotel in London, and managed to find time to sneak into Saison for lunch. The more casual dining option relative to the fine-dining Mauro Colagreco located next door and below Kioku by Endo upstairs.

The restaurant’s concept pays homage to the British fascination with the French and Italian Rivieras, evoking a bucolic, light-filled lifestyle that dates back to Queen Victoria’s visits to Continental Europe in the late 19th century. Housed in a restored Edwardian atrium with an original skylight, the space is flooded with natural daylight, creating an airy ambiance reminiscent of the Riviera’s artistic heritage. The decor features elegant greenery, intricate wall designs, and a grand mural, blending historical grandeur with a relaxed Mediterranean vibe.

Arriving for lunch, they were offering a seasonal apple-focused menu, with a few choices for starters mains and desserts. Not knowing what to expect, I decided to go with what caught my eye and decided on the langoustine, risotto and poached apple.

The starter consisted of three langoustine tails, on a bed of grated russet apples, almonds and pumpkin seeds in a verbena lemon dressing.

I was a bit offput by the appearance of the risotto, but it was absolutely delicious. Perhaps the plating could use some work, but a rich and warming brown butter risotto with mixed chanterelle mushrooms, flakes of 36 month aged parmesan and little cubes of poached apple adding a bit of sweetness to offset the concentrated umami.

Finally, the dessert - poached Braeburn apples with an almond crumble, hazelnuts and a lemon ice cream. Topping the apples were thin maple leaves made from caramelized sugar. Absolutely delicious.

I wasn’t expecting to do a writeup for Saison when I walked in. I usually drop by for breakfast as it’s the first restaurant open in the hotel in the morning, and frankly, the breakfast options are rather uninspiring. I was pleasantly surprised with the lunch. Maybe because it was a seasonal menu, or maybe because I’m a huge fan of apple dishes, but I was impressed by all three dishes. Worth returning, just not for breakfast.

Total Damage: 90 GBP/1 person